At Home in Kathmandu

My departure from India was uneventful. The taxi was waiting for me when I checked out of my hotel, there was no traffic, the airport was empty and efficient, my flight was on time and we made it safely back to Nepal. Unfortunately I hit a bit of a glitch entering Nepal which required a trip to the immigration office. Even though you're allowed to stay in Nepal for 150 days per calendar year on a tourist visa, none of the points of entry into Nepal are authorized to grant you a visa if you've been here for more than 120 days. I arrived with 118 days behind me and when I leave tomorrow it will be 121 days so they couldn't give me a visa. Of course nobody at the airport actually explained this to me, they just took off with my passport and told me to go to the immigration office across town where I would be reunited with it. It seemed inefficient to travel to the same place as my passport in different vehicles, (and downright stupid to let it out of my sight) so I insisted I travel in the immigration guy's car. Fortunately this guy was able to explain the problem and deliver me to the right place to get it fixed. I have to say that while the immigration guys at the airport were less than impressive, the guys at the office were really great, gave me a free visa, worked things out so that I won't have any problems crossing the border from Tibet by car in a few weeks and expedited all this so it would be done in the few remaining minutes of the business day.

I arrived at my guesthouse to a very warm reception and was upgraded to the second nicest room in the place. I got similarly warm receptions elsewhere in town and visited all my old haunts. I have been fairly busy running around getting things done before I head off to Tibet tomorrow morning, but have loved every minute of being here. It amazes me that Kathamandu was driving me nuts before I left for India - it now feels like a slice of heaven. The touts that used to irritate me all seem so polite and sweet after the liars and cheats of India. I've been walking around with a huge grin on my face for two days.

Last night I met with my tour-mates for the Tibet trip. There are five Aussies (four of them traveling together) and a Dutch couple. The Dutch couple are a bit younger but the Aussies are all closer to my age. Unfortunately there was a problem with flights into Lhasa so four of us are traveling a day later than planned. I knew about this at the time of booking so I don't have a problem with it, but the Aussies just found out yesterday and are hopping mad. I'm really hoping that they're able to deal with it and let it go as it will be a shame if it clouds the whole trip for all of us.

I'll be leaving early tomorrow morning for Lhasa. I know that internet is available in Lhasa, but I'll only be there for a day or so, and given the mix-up with flights, my stay there will likely be very busy. After Lhasa, I don't expect to run into the internet again while in Tibet. I am due back in Kathmandu late on October 4 so will try to touch base very shortly after that. Once again, I am traveling with a guide and will be well looked after, so don't worry about me.

I hope you all enjoy September. Happy birthday to Chris and congrats to my parents on 50 years of marriage.

Photos of India have been posted to www.flickr.com/photos/feelitturn.