Sorted!

I went to the consulate this morning and got everything straightened out. My new passport will be ready in three days and the visas will each only take a day. I'm not sure how I got my wires crossed on the Syrian one - perhaps the embassy was just trying to ensure that I gave myself enough time. The woman at the consulate called the Syrian embassy to confirm it and they assured her that there wouldn't be a problem. (Incidentally Mom and Dad, the first thing the Syrian embassy asked was whether I had an Israeli visa in my passport. When I said no, they agreed to provide the visa the same day.) So I'll be all set within about a week and will then have another week to kill before the tour. I'll sit down with my guidebook and figure out what to do with the extra time. Unfortunately the weather isn't great - it feels just like a somewhat warmer version of November at home. The weather was supposed to clear as of today, but now the forecast is looking bleak again for another few days. I'm hoping it will clear by Friday so that I can catch the full moon over the Bosphorus for Dad.

I continue to be culture-shocked here. I haven't smelled urine for two days now and am able to cross the street when the traffic lights say I can without anything running me down. I have seen couples being affectionate in the street and I've also seen women's knees. I have to laugh at how shocked I was when I saw a young couple hugging - I actually found myself staring at them in outrage before I caught myself.

I spent much of today exploring the grand bazaar and other parts of the city. Someone else might call it being hopelessly lost and wandering around trying to find a familiar landmark, but I prefer to think of it as exploring. It was great but I was exhausted by the time I finally spotted the six minarets of the Blue Mosque and could find my way home. I will begin my sight-seeing in earnest tomorrow and will go out armed with guidebook, camera and head scarf. Hopefully I'll see a bit a sunshine along the way.