Sunday, November 19, 2006

Waterfalls and Bhuddas

Spent the day yesterday with Patty and Angel. We hired a taxi and drove up river to a small town where we took a ferry across the Mekong to some caves. These are filled with thousands of statues of Bhudda in every shape, size and posture imaginable. The statues were placed by local people and the caves were once used for annual new year's celebrations. Most of the statues were placed in the 18th and 19th centuries although the caves have been used for various types of religious rituals since before Bhuddism made it's way here.

On the way back, we stopped at a little restaurant overlooking the river for lunch. All other clientele were locals and they only served fish caught directly from the Mekong. We had grilled fish as well as fish laap and sticky rice. (Laap is a local dish of minced meat with various herbs and mint. It's really good and can be ordered with any type of meat.) Given what the Mekong looks like, I was a bit concerned about eating fish taken directly from it, and also about eating the fresh salad that came with our meal, but we are all feeling fine today so obviously they took care with their preparations and the fish weren't too contaminated. The meal was delicious and I'm really glad we took the chance to stop somewhere off the beaten path.

After lunch we headed south of town to the an awesome waterfall where we were able to swim in beautiful blue water. It is really a magical place and we'll likely go back for a quiet day of lounging by the lagoons. We had another stellar dinner last night.

I am spending today on my own exploring more of the town, which continues to enchant me. I truly don't think I'm going to be able to drag myself away from here in time to go to Vietnam before Christmas. Much of the charm has to be attributed to the Lao people who really have a special quality. I have been trying to figure out how they differ from other Asians I have encountered, and I think it's a sense that they treat us all as equals. There is no attitude towards us as rich westerners who should be parted from our money. Nor is there any disdain for us descending on their country. We're all just people co-existing here. Perhaps this is born from a stong sense of Bhuddism, but I can't really say. All I know is that I'm incredibly comfortable and happy here.

A few other reasons why this place is awesome:

- Bakeries. I can only assume that this is left over from the French colonial days, but there are fresh baguettes everywhere you turn and baked goods to die for.
- Right-hand drive
- No traffic lights, and no need for any
- Wine. Did I mention the wine? My Canadian friends have been a very bad influence on me in this regard :-).
- By law all restaurants/bars must close by 11:30 and by law all guests must be in their hotel rooms by 12:00. Nights are quiet as graveyards.
- A total feeling of safety and comfort
- No neon lights. The stars are amazing at night.
- 10 minutes into my morning run and I'm out of town in the Lao countryside with no other westerners in sight. Everyone calls out "sabawdee" (hello) as I pass although they appear to be wondering what on earth I'm doing.

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